Monday, 30 September 2013

Mon 30th: Miserable in Memphis, not us but the weather, and it's drizzling as we get picked up for our morning music tour which takes in the Sun Recording Studios, the Rock 'n' Soul Museum and the Stax Studios. Well it should have included the Stax Studios but the tour company clean forgot that Stax is closed on Mondays, and has been for several years; so tomorrow morning instead.

The Sun Studios is the most fantastic tour, only small but exactly the same equipment and decor as it had when it was started in 1951 by Sam Phillips and was called Memphis Recording Services. We even had photos taken with the microphone used by Elvis, Johnny Cash, Carl Perkins, Jerry Lee Lewis and many, many more, wow!

Sam Phillips started by offering anyone the chance to come and record, and Elvis at the age of 18 did just that, but his first tune, for his mother didn't get Sam's approval, but fortunately his partner Marion Keisker kept it for a rainy day. When he had first come in, Sam was away and so Marion asked Elvis who he thought he sounded like, just to help with the recording. Elvis replied, "I don't sound like anyone Ma'am", and of course he didn't, he was unique.

After pressure from Marion and around a year later Sam did invite Elvis in with two other musicians to record, but he was still unimpressed until after two hours he asked Elvis if he had anything else, and that's when he sang, "That's All Right Mama". The record was sent straight over to WHBQ, and disk jockey Dewey Phillips, who played it constantly, and the rest is history as they say.

I have to say that the whole tour really gave me shivers, quite strange as I was not the greatest Elvis fan, but the place had such an air of history about it, and so many great musicians to this day still record there on the corner of Union & Marshall, even that paragon Bono from U2. It's open for tours during the day, but recording still takes place at night. There was a period when Sam Phillips sold Sun Studios and the building lay empty for over 25 years, but it was re-opened when it's potential was rediscovered after a 25 year reunion of Carl Perkins, Johnny Cash and one or two others recorded again at Sun.

Difficult to follow such an experience but the Rock 'n' Soul museum did its best. Downtown, and close to Beale Street where it all began, it was well located. This was a self-guided tour with headphones and device to listen to commentary and plenty of music. The museum traces country, blues, gospel, soul and rock music back from the share-cropping days of the 20s, through to today, not forgetting 1964, when Martin Luther King came to Memphis at the height of the civil rights protests, and was assassinated, but more of that when we visit the Civil Rights Museum on Wednesday.

After this we stroll onto Beale Street and lunch in the Pig on Beale, a tastefully named down in the mouth restaurant, but it does the job. Although we've not seen too much of  Memphis, it's very different from Nashville, more "in the raw" you might say. The Stax Studio is in a part of town I would not wish to stroll around in, so the drop-off and pick-up by the tour company works well for us.

In a music store Lorna does her shy impression with a beautiful black man; he has a smile as wide as the Mississippi, and Lorna compliments him. He says he tells his children "it's not what you wear from head to foot that counts, it' what you wear from ear to ear", we like that.

Dinner tonight at the hotel next door, Frank Grisanti's in The Embassy Suites; good ambience, good food mid-range pricing. And of course the Dolphins are at the Saints, New Orleans, and they are definitely the underdogs, down 21-10 at half-time; we are cheering for them Bud, but to no avail, they go down 38-17.

Spend today: Music tour (card); Sun Studios (card); Rock 'n' Soul museum (card)

Sunday, 29 September 2013

Sun 29th: A day of some contrasts, sunny and warm as we leave Nashville, cool and wet when we arrive in Memphis. A good cheap lunch for $10 in Savannah, no a different one, an obscenely expensive dinner for $160, and nowhere the value for money. Dinner was at Ruth & Chris's, a steak house that was a little too far up its own backside, but when you decided to go there, it's raining and you do actually fancy a steak, then you have to go with it.

Lorna had a 12oz ribeye at $39, I had the filet at $41, and that's without any salads that usually come FOC, and without any sides, these were $8 per, extra. Add some beer and some ice-cream, and only 7% tax and you have a big bill.

We started on the interstate, but decide to follow one of the scenic routes, and add about 70 miles to our journey, making it around 270 miles in total. Off the interstate, the roads are virtually empty, but it's Sunday, and we are most definitely in the bible belt, the churches are the finest buildings in most of the small towns along the way. There are one or two places we could have chosen to visit along the way, notably Loretta Lynn's ranch, and there is a festival of gospel music this very weekend, but it does not start until 4pm following the morning church service there, and the timing does not work. Seems like Loretta has got religion.

Lorna has a period driving and is fine, says she has regained a little of her confidence. We arrive at The Hampton Inn, and again this is out of town, and there does not seem to be a shuttle as there was in Nashville. We do some research regarding things to see, and on the list at the moment are Graceland, of course, Sun Recording studios where Elvis cut his early records, Stax studios, which I am really looking forward to, having been a great soul fan in my early days. Told one or two people that I had seen Otis Redding live in London (Finsbury Astoria) in 1970, that seemed to impress.

Also a must is the National Civil Rights Museum, the location where Martin Luther King was assassinated, we plan to leave that until Wednesday morning when we do not fly to NY until 6pm in the evening.

Spend today: Hotel bill (card); checked card statement and no debits taken at time of booking, however our record at booking was $532, but we have nearly $100 of taxes to add on; petrol (card); dinner (card)......overall an expensive day, but I think we are still in good shape.
Sat 28th: Downtown Nashville is a slalom course this morning, and even Rudy our tour guide and driver is flumoxed. There's a woman's half marathon, there's the festival, there's a small protest and there's building work going on, all of which shut of many roads, and making our route rather tortuous.

We're on a morning tour, and Rudy our driver is one of the funniest we've ever had. He's looks completely strait-laced but he's droll, and he has a real southern drawl, and they go together very well, he soon has the bus in stitches with his humour. He introduces the Nashville Titans football team and the Knoxville Possums, apparently they're great at home but they get killed on the road!! The two stops are great, the world famous Ryman Auditorium, which used to be the original Grand Old Opry, until it was moved 25 years ago, and then the Country Music Hall of Fame which was amazing, the most complete collection of memorabilia anywhere, three floors in total. The exhibits included Elvis's solid gold Cadillac, and many of the musical instruments played by the legends of country music, names I remember from my youth, including of course Roy Rogers and Gene Autry. There's also an archive there that seems enormous, but closed to the public. As with all American displays, museums etc it is very well done in a beautiful building.

We relax in the afternoon with some sun-bathing around the hotel pool and a bit of reading before heading back into town and a couple of bars on Broadway. It's Saturday night and even more busy than the previous day. We're remembered by the lady bar tender in Legends and we enjoy Buck McCoy, remember that name, because I don't think he's going to be a legend, but he's entertaining nonetheless. Then a more country group with an excellent lady singer before heading for Demos, the restaurant that's had a couple of recommendations already today. We need to be swift as time is moving on, but there's an hours lines there and we head for The Hard Rock instead. We team up with Fritz and Karen to make a table of four and spend an enjoyable hour over dinner with them. He's a retired eco-architect and lecturer, and she a professional photographer. She's Dutch, and he's an eclectic mix of American, Irish, English and Cherokee Indian, but I think he's really David Soul, incognito.

They're off to the Ryman Auditorium for a concert, and we leave for the gigantic Bridgestone Arena. We're in by 7.40pm, and there's a good warm up act, male singer/guitarist. He departs just before 8pm and then we have to wait listening to a medley of Stevie Wonder hits before Lionel appears to deafening whooping and hollering, nobody does whooping and hollering like Americans, that is of course if they have finished their two gallon bucket of popcorn. Given just how far we are from the stage, my X30 lens only just makes out Lionel, but the sound quality, albeit loud, if clear and you can hear the lyrics and all the instruments. The arena seats 18,000, but it's not quite full tonight, but a good turnout nonetheless.

Lorna and I exchange glances and conclude the idea of seeing Lionel Ritchie in Nashville was a little better than the reality, and reckon that Ian Dow was correct when he said we should have seen something at the Ryman, much more atmosphere. To get the 10.30 shuttle back to the hotel we have to take our leave before the end, but by that time it was getting a bit samey. The shuttle journey is great at we all sing along to some country favourites, nearly as good as the concert!!

Well we've done Nashville now and it's off to Memphis tomorrow, hoping for some more bluesy music perhaps.

Spend today: City tour (card, but check yesterday, no receipt received); dinner at Hard Rock (card)

Friday, 27 September 2013

Fri 27th: A replan after speaking to lady on hotel reception; she recommends the Greyline tour as it includes entrance for all the key places which the town trolley does  not, but it's full for the afternoon, so we book for Saturday morning. Instead we head over to Gaylord Opryland, an amazing hotel/convention centre/restaurants/boating lake, and stroll. Lorna is suffering with a very painful foot which keeps flaring up, I'm concerned. We head over to the Mall and pass the Grand Old Opry on the way. It should actually be the New Grand Old Opry, as it's only been in this position in Music Valley for around ten years, having been moved from its original down town location. As with most US malls, this is staggeringly large, and one restaurant is actually an aquarium complete with sharks and other friendly fishes. Lorna buys another pair of Bernie Mev, this time with full toes ready for GKtW.After coffee and a muffin we head back to the hotel before hitting down town for a stroll along Broadway.

Well here we are in downtown Nashville, just another couple of wannabees looking for a good time, and if you're into music, especially country music, then this is the place to come to. The main area is along Broadway between the river and 5th street where the singers and groups in all the bars and restaurants are trying to get noticed and make it BIG. They get paid a very small wage, but after that they play for tips. Those that can't get a slot in one of the bars busk on the street, and that feels pretty desperate. Most of the bars you can drop into, there's no cover charge, and you don't even need to buy a drink, you can just listen to the music........and it's an all day affair, from morning to early morning, the acts usually do a four hour stint.

I was in Nashville some 15 years ago on business with Modicon, and I remember we ate at The Stock Yards, a very up-market restaurant, on-line now they don't even show the prices, and our lady shuttle driver reckons it'd probably cost around $100 for a meal there. After I also remember we hit the bars on Broadway, but which one, I'm sure I recognise it, but then quite a few look the same.

We hit a couple of bars and listen to some music, it's all pretty good, and we leave tips at each. I am amazed when I hear myself ordering Bud Light, but I needed some water, and that's the closest thing they had. We down burgers and ice cream at Margariteville before heading back to our hotel. We are looking forward to seeing Lionel Ritchie tomorrow.

I'm back in Lorna's good books when Hanna has to report that Rutland Times have accepted my nomination of Lorna for the Inspired in Rutland awards. Hanna reads my nomination and it moves me again as it did when I wrote it, it's quite a story when you put it all together, and Lorna is pleased to have been nominated, and has to write and accept the nomination.

Lucy lets us know that she is still alive, and off to Leeds for the weekend with Lisa.

Spend Today: Greyline Tour (card, hotel bill?); more shoes for Lorna (card); dinner at Jimmy Buffet (card); drinks and town shuttle (cash)

Thursday, 26 September 2013

Thurs 26th: An early start, just 500 miles to drive today, and it takes us around 10 hours including a couple of stops. From Savannah to Nashville via Macon, Atlanta & Chattanooga. I drive all the way, and we fall out over Lorna's driving, she says I have made her lose her confidence, I say I am not completely confident when she is driving, probably not the right thing to say. Lorna makes it too easy for me to say I'll drive, I make it too easy for Lorna to say she'll not drive. Anyway after a couple of beers at the Hyatt Happy Hour, we're talking again, and heading for John A's, dinner and country music; I suggest she has a drive by herself.

With 125 miles to go, the satnav says we have just one hour left to drive, it had been bugging me all along that the ETA was wrong, until we tumble that we lose another hour as we cross into Tennessee, we're now on Central Standard Time, or six hours behind the UK. The overcast weather turns to rain before changing to sunshine at last, and it's 25 deg C when we reach Nashville.

The drive is pretty straightforward, but you do have to get used to undertaking as well as overtaking, and of course the hundreds of large rigs which do just as they please, switch lanes all the time and sit on your tail at 70 mph. The roads are better than I expected, and our route takes us through the centre of Atlanta which is impressive.

Spend today: hotel (card, but already accounted for); petrol (cash and then card); dinner at Johns As (card)

Wednesday, 25 September 2013


Wed 25th: Guess what, it lashing down with rain as the blinds are opened, but by the time we've got our arses in gear, it's just about stopped and it's a dry but overcast day in Savannah. We take the trolley tour and learn about the history of Savannah, from English colony in 1733, with a charter from King George II to the beautifully restored city it is today. The original charter stipulated no slavery, no lawyers, no Catholics and no alcohol; probably only one element remains intact today, and it's always difficult to be sure about that.

Sixty years ago the Historic Savannah Foundation was formed by six ladies who bought old properties and restored them. The battle was eventually won, and Savannah has been preserved rather than turned into another standard US city. On a better day it would be just delightful to walk the squares and boulevards, and capture some wonderful images, but the light was so flat today, it really didn't inspire much photography, other than some shots to note we had been here.

An hour on the river in an old river boat was included, and we learn surprisingly that Savannah is the second largest container port in the US after New York; this is confirmed with several massive container ships towering over us both on the boat and on our strolls down River Street.

The food is pretty standard, and one meal between two usually suffices, if not in the evening, then certainly at lunch time. Our first latte coffee in America is tracked down and enjoyed, but now I feel the need for a little rant at this time........tips, I know it shouldn't come as a surprise in the US, but the naked appeal for tips at every turn is starting to grate big time. One meal recently, a 20% gratuity was added to the bill, 20%!! On today's lunch bill, printed below the total for those whose maths is below standard was the dollars and cents value of the tip at 15%, 17.5% and 20%. There are jars everywhere and when complimentary drinks are served in the hotels, the bar-person expects a tip in the jar. Our chamber-person has kindly left an envelope for us, instructing us to leave our gratuity at reception when we leave. Signs on tour buses say "tips are both appropriate and appreciated". I think a new strategy may be necessary, every tip is $1, regardless, that would mean I would fulfil the quantity, if not the quality aspect.

Spend today: Eden Vacation Rentals (Paypal $1,301), trolley tour (card)
Tues 24th: It's overcast and promising more rain, but the weather never quite lives up to it's promise and it stays mostly dry all day, bar a shower en route Savannah.

Leaving the forgettable Aku Tiki hotel behind we make for The World Centre of Racing, or if you're not American, Daytona International Speedway, and take a 90 minute tour. They do have a point however, as the place is immense, and has a massive history. After racing started on Daytona Beach, the raceway was formed in 19.. with the inaugural Daytona 500 race first run in 1958. It has been rebuilt several times, and is currently undergoing a $400M refurbishment called Daytona Rising, which will be ready in Jan 2016. This will reduce slightly the attendance which is usually over 250,000 for the 500. The main stand is 0.8 miles long and holds 102,000 spectators, wow! 

It's suggested we head for St. Augustine, just south of Jacksonville en route Savannah, and take the coastal A1A route. We do this and it makes a pleasant change from motorway, notwithstanding we drive through a swarm of what we learn to be "love bugs". They're big and black, and there's always two of them stuck together, doing goodness knows what, and they make one hell of a mess of the front of the car. We have time for lunch in St. Augustine, but not the bus tour of the oldest town in the US. After this it's back onto I-95, across the state line and into Georgia. We arrive at our destination on the waterfront in Savannah after a few changes of driver, and a couple of loops of Bay Street. The hotel is great, an old converted cotton warehouse, and in walking distance of restaurants, shops and of course souvenir shops.

Spend today: petrol (card), Daytona hotel (card), Daytona tour (card)

Tuesday, 24 September 2013

Mon 23rd: It's a sad farewell, but not before Bud has shown us his speech at the Barmitzvah of their grandson Jason, it's sincere and motivational. We load the car and wave our farewells, at least Bud & Dava can now tidy up and relax a bit, they must have wondered what hit them over the past three days.

Lorna drives and we head north to Kissimmee, just over 150 miles and we find 4669 Cheyenne Point Trail where she will be staying for three weeks next month. The house is fine and the agent Sonya is very accommodating, and helps us solve another problem, driving to and from the airport, she recommends a car rental company that picks you up at the airport and drives you to your first destination and then picks you up at the end and drives you back to the airport. We are both relieved and Lorna makes contact via email later in the day.

As we are leaving the rain starts and it is torrential for the remainder of the day right up to our arrival in Daytona Beach. Before we leave Orlando we drop into Give Kids the World, and even with the rain we can see what a wonderful place it is, 63 villas for poorly children and their families. Lorna makes contact with Volunteer Services and buys a copy of the book, Henry's Story, the story about the man who created the place, who just happens to be a survivor of Auschwitz. GKtW is just three minutes drive from the house, so we're both very happy about that.

No need now to do a trial run from the airport, so we head straight for Daytona, and our hotel is right on the beach, but it's definitely not a beach type of day and we opt for the complimentary beer in the restaurant, along with a large group of noisy old American men, on a golf tour. After an early dinner, which is better than expected, we call it a day, and hope for better weather tomorrow.

Spend Today: petrol Boynton Beach (card); petrol Orlando (card)

Monday, 23 September 2013

Sun 22nd: The day we have been waiting for, our first game of American Football, Miami Dolphins versus Atlanta Falcons. Preparations start early as Bud & Dava prepare the food for the BBQ, and we load the car. Bud is a meticulous man in everthing he does, and preparing for a game is no exception, the car is perfectly packed, everything is in its rightful place, and we leave 11133 Malaysia Circle on the stroke of 12.10pm, as planned.

It's about an hour drive, and we have allotted parking; we quickly erect the gazebo, and get the BBQ fired up. It's very hot, and the humidity is high. There are families everywhere "tailgating" as we are, BBQing for lunch before the game. All the boys are emulating their heroes, throwing and catching balls, and practicing their interceptions. Ryan Tannehill is the Toby Flood of this outfit, the playmaker, or quarter-back, and his name is on every other shirt.

The Dolphin colours are orange & turquoise, but I'm keeping the Brit end up with my Tigers shirt, but no one seems interested in a different shirt, and fortunately it cannot be mistaken for the black & red of the Falcons. As we make our way over to the stadium, the heavens open, and we shelter inside the stadium, but kick-off time looms and we make our way to our seats, donning our plastic ponchos, until the rain stops and the sun starts beats down. The humidity and the heat are intense, the noise from the bowl of a stadium is even more intimidating and the game commences. There is no let up from the backing commentary and music. The two massive screens are either playing or replaying the last move, or are advertising something, or providing entertainment between the plays. Kiss Cam amuses us as the ground cameras pick out couples who see themselves and are then obliged by peer pressure to kiss one another, fun and even more so when the last couple to be picked out are two gigantic Atlanta players on the touchline trying to look menacing, not not trying, but looking very menacing, great fun.

The most amazing interlude, and this is between plays, not at half time, is a message from a soldier serving in Afghanistan on the screen to his family at the ground. No sooner is the message complete, he is there in the stadium, running over to his strategically placed, but unsuspecting family, quite moving, and the players from both sides are suddenly secondary to the proceedings. They all run off and we have a 2nd down & 7 on 25, I think that's were it finished some six or seven minutes ago.

The game comprises four, 15 minutes quarters of actual play, and the whole edifice takes just under three hours, but amazingly time does not drag and I get quite engrossed in the game. Dolphins have won their first two games, but are only expected to win today because the Falcons have four key players injured. For most of the game a Falcons win seems the most likely outcome, they are much slicker at the plays, and when two key Dolphin players leave the field injured, Bud I think expects the worst. However he hasn't counted on the resilience of the Dolphins and they make their way up field and get to a 3rd down and 1 on 1, or their play just one yard from the line; Ryan Tannehill is expected to squeeze someone over the top, but he throws and a rookie makes his first catch for the winning touchdown with just 38 seconds left on the clock.

Dolphins 27, Falcons 23, the stadium erupts, as there is no time left for the Falcons to strike back, and the noise is incredible, and continues until we reach the car park. With 70,000 spectators in the ground the game had a similar feel to a Twickenham final, but twice/three times the noise. Bud has his positioning well planned and we are out of the car park in ten minutes, leaving some stuck in the mud following the earlier rain, and as we hit I-95, we can see a full car park that stretches for over half a mile, and will take some over an hour to vacate.

Within thirty minutes of getting home, we have showered and Bud & Dava have rustled up another sumptuous meal, left-overs from the family party, a perfect end to a memorable day, thanks Bud & Dava.

Spend Today: water (cash)

Saturday, 21 September 2013

Sat 21st: An early start for a visit to Wakodahatchee, a small wetland complete with boardwalk. If you are early enough you get to see a range of birds on the move before the sun gets to high and the temperature gets too hot. There's herons, cormorants, turtles, alligators, and some humans taking their morning walk.

I try to get the hand of the X30 zoom on the new Sony, difficult to get the focus right at full zoom, but I shoot some good images. Image of the day however, is Bud's shot of a squirrel, with the sun picking out his tail. Bud is shooting with his 100-400mm Canon lens, trying to catch birds in flight, which as ever proves to be a difficult challenge.

After some breakfast we visit the Arthur R Marshall Loxahatchee Wildlife Park. This is another manifestation of the Everglades, more forest and swamp, compared with the sawgrass of the other day, but also some vegetation in between. We see no wildlife, but get an impression of the flora & fauna of this area, slightly underwhelming.

Time for more driving to see all the malls, and the state-of-the-art hospitals in the area. We call into the Del Ray Beach area and stroll down Atlantic Boulevard. Worth Avenue in Palm Beach has class, whilst Atlantic Boulevard in Del Ray Beach has charm, or that's how Bud describes the difference. There are a few more people around here, and some of them are trying hard to be The People; one lady with an amply filled gold lame boob tube, tight white slacks, very white teeth and a tan definitely makes the grade from where I am standing, and fortunately I don't get caught with my tongue hanging out.

It's a big night as we are the centre of attention for the family party, it's really quite intimidating, but of course everything is fine as we are introduced. Jennie is their only child together, Lisa is Bud's daughter from his first marriage. Neil, Kerry & Robbie are Dava's children from her first marriage. Jake is Robbie & Melissa's son, Spencer, Caleb, Daphne & Tiffany are Jennie & Scott's children. Neil's wife is Sigrid, from Austria, and then there's Lisa husband, Ken. They both have children but are not at the party. Kerry lives in Connecticut, and so is deemed too far for this party. David is Bud's younger brother, a high risk opthalmic surgeon, who seems to know everything; he speaks in a low gravelly monotone that can be difficult to hang onto.

Neil is a great guy and runs his own $40M flower importing business, owning farms in Columbia, and travels all round the world. As a supplier to Walmart, I'm sure life is hectic, but it does have its rewards as he's just trading in his Porchse, for a new build Corvette. Bud & Dava have ordered in food from their local Italian restaurant and there is far too much, as you might imagine, plenty of beer and the evening finishes with whiskey and cigars (not me) outside in the cage.

Spend today: ice-cream (cash); shoes (card)
Fri 20th: A change of weather and more the Florida sunshine we had been expecting, although we are clearly still in the wet season. We set out to find a florist and a supermarket in order to get a few more gifts for Bud & Dava. This takes us to around 11am and we make our way to our home for the next three days, 11133 Malaysia Circle.

Bud & Dava live on a beautiful retirement estate, in a typical Florida home, single storey and backing onto a lake. The development has around 800 homes aimed at people over 50 years of age, and is one of many in this area. There home is large, open plan, and hugely colourful, they both like prime colours, and they are evident everywhere in the art work and the ornaments. 

We get the grand tour of both home and estate, ending up with lunch at the "clubhouse". We see rooms of seniors playing cards, and other games, lounging by the pool or eating lunch; everything is there, you need never leave the development. Bud & Dava clearly love this lifestyle, and it's easy to see why, but you do wonder if being segregated from the below 50s, apart from family that is, is everything its cracked up to be, I think it would take some adapting to.

Having had a small lunch, by US standards, we drive down to Palm Beach and see where the old money spends the winter, some fabulous mansions, and it is evident they are being readied for the forthcoming arrivals, with armies of workmen cleaning, renovating and titivating. LA has Rodeo Drive, Palm Beach has Worth Avenue and a stroll down one side and back up the other is obligatory. It's still quiet, with few people, but come November it will be heaving with The People, and people watching The People, and people trying hard to be The People; yesterday we were just people. All the names are there, and it's a close call but I manage to prevent Lorna from causing damage in Tiffany & Co. As for the automobiles, it's Mercs, BMWs, the odd sky blue Bentley convertible, and of course some big V8 American jobs.

Bud & Dava believe they live in paradise, and it's easy to see why; I'm sure they would like us to move out here. They are rightfully very proud of their lifestyle, and everything about it; they really love showing us everything in the area, even their local wine shop, never have we been such welcomed guests.

Prime Catch is a rated restaurant down by the water, and we are treated, we are not allowed to contribute at all. We all have fish, and very tasty fish, some grouper, some mahi, and some scallops. Bud & Dava watch enviously as Lorna & I devour two large portions of ice-cream, those gym sessions really paid off.

I start to tire around 9.30pm after getting home, and I just manage not to fall asleep while Bud takes me through the family albums on his computer.

Spend today: Florist (card); Target (card)

Thursday, 19 September 2013

Thurs 19th: Well the sun has made an appearance, and Key West looks great. Breakfast by the beach again, and a quick pose next to the marker for the southern point in the USA, closer to Cuba than Miami.

We're on our way to Boynton Beach today, with a stop planned at Sawgrass Recreation Park for an air-boat ride. The drive back through the keys is beautiful, and the road south is full of bikers posing on their Harleys, and an endless string of open top Mustangs, it really is a cliche, the ride down to Key West in a convertible Ford Mustang.

A quick lunch at a road-side cafe in Key Largo, and then onto Sawgrass. Well we nearly booked a couple of hours private air-boat ride at several hundred dollars before we came.......thank god we didn't. A 30 minute public affair at $20 a throw was sufficient to put us off any future rides. Incredibly noisy (my ears are still ringing six hours later), it's like watching paint dry, It's just grass and water, and not as much grass as there should be due to the heavy rainfall this year raising the level by around four feet. Then if you're very lucky an alligator puts in an appearance, just some eyes, and a bit of head above the water, have to say I was quite happy when it ended.

In the season it must be very busy, there were lots of boats there. Ours was a single shaft with a Chevy 450bhp V8 engine. On the downside the animal/reptile walk was very sad. Some beautiful animals in dismally small surroundings, needless to say we didn't stay long.

Another hour or son on the Interstate and we're in Boynton Beach. What a great hotel, very welcoming, and an happy hour with complimentary beer. Dinner at a restaurant down the road from the hotel called Bonefish, not too bad.

We called Bud & Dava to let them know what time we might arrive, and off course they asked where we were, and we had to tell them, and then they asked why we weren't staying with them, just as we had anticipated. But really who could put us up for more than three nights?

Expense today: petrol (cash); SMHC (credit card); lunch (cash); Sawgrass (credit card); Bonefish (credit card)

Wednesday, 18 September 2013

Wed 18th: Overcast and very humid, breakfast at the beach bar and then the tour bus. Two main stops are The Little White House, and the Harry Truman story, and the Key West home of Ernest Hemingway. This takes most of the day. The Harry Truman story is excellently narrated by Bob, and this is an unexpected jewel. Lunch is at a little Cuban cafe.

Our sunset cruise is upgraded to Commotion on the Ocean, and we take a cab to the keyside and join 70 other revellers onboard the Caribbean Fury, weak booze, edible food but great blusey music. Lorna gets another hit for Lorna's Leap and the lady signs up for Give Kids the World. Bill's a Harley riding accountant from Chicago, she's Teresa from Texas, and they don't like Mr. Obama one little bit!

After many Mojitos, I'm completely sober, but then I guess they don't want 70 drunks aboard an ocean going vessel, even if it's just the "head" cleaning they're worried about; I'm not so sure about Lorna who has managed to get her champagne glass refilled several times. The evening ends with chocolate coated key lime pie on a stick, from Kermit's, one of the delights of Key West.

Spend today: breakfast (cash); tour bus (card); lunch (cash); taxi (cash); sunset cruise balance (card)
Tues 17th: Car rental centre right across the street from the hotel, sort the toll situation, apparently it tots up automatically and is charged to our credit card at Memphis. We select a Chrysler 200 from the few left in our allotted row, and just about manage to cram the cases into the trunk (boot) at the hotel.

Breakfast at the hotel, forgettable; torrential rain and a satnav not working make our departure from Miami a little stressful, but we soon find out way out onto the Florida turnpike and then onto US 1 down to the Keys. Strict speed limit all the way, 45mph minimum, 55mph maximum; the journey of 145 miles takes about 3 hours.

Southernmost on the Beach is a large hotel, but very comfortable, and as its name suggests, it's the southernmost hotel in the Continental US. We grab lunch at the beach cafe before strolling along Duvall Street after lunch and look for a few restaurants, it's not bad but a little tacky in places. The gallery of Peter Lik, master photographer is fabulous, and follow-up is required. Peter Lik was born in Australia of Czech immigrant parents before coming to the US, and becoming a top landscape photographer. His limited edition of 950 prints are sold at increasing prices in 10% batches, the first 10% maybe $5,000, the last 10% maybe $20,000, I really do need to apply myself a little more!!

Later we drive across the island to find an AT&T; eventually we purchase a cheap PAYG for this trip, and for Lorna when she returns in October. Very impressive operation and sales agent complete with his do-it-all iPad, including an attachment which swipes more dollars off my credit card.

Dinner at Abbondanza, an Italian, the portions were gargantuan, and it hardly seemed like we had made any impression.

Spend today:
Sheraton Hotel, Alamo car rental, deposit for sunset cruise, mobile phone & SIM card, dinner; our breakfast was missing from the Sheraton bill, check to see if it is added later on statement.


Monday, 16 September 2013

Mon 16th: Fabulous cloud formations as we land at Miami International Airport, and absolutely loaded with moisture, which is due to be shed over southern Florida for the next few days; just glad we didn't go to the expense of the open top  motor for the drive down to Key West tomorrow.

Shelled out for an upgrade on Virgin for Premium Economy, but worth every cent just to see Lorna's face when she said what she expected me to say, "we can't afford that!"

Great flight, good food and watched Tarantino's "Django Unchained", wonderful, and if you see nothing else of this film the scene with the 40 strong possee wearing KKK type hoods, had me in stitches, one of the great spoof scenes.

Saturday, 14 September 2013