Mon 30th: Miserable in Memphis, not us but the weather, and it's drizzling as we get picked up for our morning music tour which takes in the Sun Recording Studios, the Rock 'n' Soul Museum and the Stax Studios. Well it should have included the Stax Studios but the tour company clean forgot that Stax is closed on Mondays, and has been for several years; so tomorrow morning instead.
The Sun Studios is the most fantastic tour, only small but exactly the same equipment and decor as it had when it was started in 1951 by Sam Phillips and was called Memphis Recording Services. We even had photos taken with the microphone used by Elvis, Johnny Cash, Carl Perkins, Jerry Lee Lewis and many, many more, wow!
Sam Phillips started by offering anyone the chance to come and record, and Elvis at the age of 18 did just that, but his first tune, for his mother didn't get Sam's approval, but fortunately his partner Marion Keisker kept it for a rainy day. When he had first come in, Sam was away and so Marion asked Elvis who he thought he sounded like, just to help with the recording. Elvis replied, "I don't sound like anyone Ma'am", and of course he didn't, he was unique.
After pressure from Marion and around a year later Sam did invite Elvis in with two other musicians to record, but he was still unimpressed until after two hours he asked Elvis if he had anything else, and that's when he sang, "That's All Right Mama". The record was sent straight over to WHBQ, and disk jockey Dewey Phillips, who played it constantly, and the rest is history as they say.
I have to say that the whole tour really gave me shivers, quite strange as I was not the greatest Elvis fan, but the place had such an air of history about it, and so many great musicians to this day still record there on the corner of Union & Marshall, even that paragon Bono from U2. It's open for tours during the day, but recording still takes place at night. There was a period when Sam Phillips sold Sun Studios and the building lay empty for over 25 years, but it was re-opened when it's potential was rediscovered after a 25 year reunion of Carl Perkins, Johnny Cash and one or two others recorded again at Sun.
Difficult to follow such an experience but the Rock 'n' Soul museum did its best. Downtown, and close to Beale Street where it all began, it was well located. This was a self-guided tour with headphones and device to listen to commentary and plenty of music. The museum traces country, blues, gospel, soul and rock music back from the share-cropping days of the 20s, through to today, not forgetting 1964, when Martin Luther King came to Memphis at the height of the civil rights protests, and was assassinated, but more of that when we visit the Civil Rights Museum on Wednesday.
After this we stroll onto Beale Street and lunch in the Pig on Beale, a tastefully named down in the mouth restaurant, but it does the job. Although we've not seen too much of Memphis, it's very different from Nashville, more "in the raw" you might say. The Stax Studio is in a part of town I would not wish to stroll around in, so the drop-off and pick-up by the tour company works well for us.
In a music store Lorna does her shy impression with a beautiful black man; he has a smile as wide as the Mississippi, and Lorna compliments him. He says he tells his children "it's not what you wear from head to foot that counts, it' what you wear from ear to ear", we like that.
Dinner tonight at the hotel next door, Frank Grisanti's in The Embassy Suites; good ambience, good food mid-range pricing. And of course the Dolphins are at the Saints, New Orleans, and they are definitely the underdogs, down 21-10 at half-time; we are cheering for them Bud, but to no avail, they go down 38-17.
Spend today: Music tour (card); Sun Studios (card); Rock 'n' Soul museum (card)
Sam Phillips started by offering anyone the chance to come and record, and Elvis at the age of 18 did just that, but his first tune, for his mother didn't get Sam's approval, but fortunately his partner Marion Keisker kept it for a rainy day. When he had first come in, Sam was away and so Marion asked Elvis who he thought he sounded like, just to help with the recording. Elvis replied, "I don't sound like anyone Ma'am", and of course he didn't, he was unique.
After pressure from Marion and around a year later Sam did invite Elvis in with two other musicians to record, but he was still unimpressed until after two hours he asked Elvis if he had anything else, and that's when he sang, "That's All Right Mama". The record was sent straight over to WHBQ, and disk jockey Dewey Phillips, who played it constantly, and the rest is history as they say.
I have to say that the whole tour really gave me shivers, quite strange as I was not the greatest Elvis fan, but the place had such an air of history about it, and so many great musicians to this day still record there on the corner of Union & Marshall, even that paragon Bono from U2. It's open for tours during the day, but recording still takes place at night. There was a period when Sam Phillips sold Sun Studios and the building lay empty for over 25 years, but it was re-opened when it's potential was rediscovered after a 25 year reunion of Carl Perkins, Johnny Cash and one or two others recorded again at Sun.
Difficult to follow such an experience but the Rock 'n' Soul museum did its best. Downtown, and close to Beale Street where it all began, it was well located. This was a self-guided tour with headphones and device to listen to commentary and plenty of music. The museum traces country, blues, gospel, soul and rock music back from the share-cropping days of the 20s, through to today, not forgetting 1964, when Martin Luther King came to Memphis at the height of the civil rights protests, and was assassinated, but more of that when we visit the Civil Rights Museum on Wednesday.
After this we stroll onto Beale Street and lunch in the Pig on Beale, a tastefully named down in the mouth restaurant, but it does the job. Although we've not seen too much of Memphis, it's very different from Nashville, more "in the raw" you might say. The Stax Studio is in a part of town I would not wish to stroll around in, so the drop-off and pick-up by the tour company works well for us.
In a music store Lorna does her shy impression with a beautiful black man; he has a smile as wide as the Mississippi, and Lorna compliments him. He says he tells his children "it's not what you wear from head to foot that counts, it' what you wear from ear to ear", we like that.
Dinner tonight at the hotel next door, Frank Grisanti's in The Embassy Suites; good ambience, good food mid-range pricing. And of course the Dolphins are at the Saints, New Orleans, and they are definitely the underdogs, down 21-10 at half-time; we are cheering for them Bud, but to no avail, they go down 38-17.
Spend today: Music tour (card); Sun Studios (card); Rock 'n' Soul museum (card)