Thursday, 3 October 2013

Wed 2nd: A very smooth transfer from Memphis to New York, and we arrive around midnight at Judy's, just off Central Park, and on the 29th floor of a large apartment block, but more of that later.

Tuesday started with another pick-up from Blues City Tours, and a drop off at the National Civil Rights Museum. The first thing we notice is that the place is under refurbishment, and there is a one-woman protest in place outside. She is complaining that the $27M being spent would be better on a shelter for the homeless, rather than keep the violence and negativity alive through the museum.

Yet again the museum is very well done and we assimilate the history of African-Americans in the country, from notably a Supreme Court case in 1857 where a black slave lost his case for freedom when it was declared that a black man had no rights. Dred Scott had claimed his freedom when his owner moved from a slave state to a non-slave state. In 1861 the civil war started with one of the main issues being slavery, the south (Confederates) where slavery existed confronting the north (Union) where slavery did not at Fort Sumpter in North Carolina. The war was won by the union and in 1868, the 14th Amendment of the Constitution declared that all persons born or naturalised in the United States shall be citizens and enjoy full rights and protections under the law, so far so good.

In 1870 the 15th Amendment states that all citizens have the right to vote regardless of race or colour, however in practice many black people found it impossible to register to vote, whilst under threat of violence or loss of employment if they persisted. In 1896, the Supreme Court rules "separate but equal", a ruling that dictates race relations for the next 64 turbulent years with whites and blacks effectively segregated until the year 1968. The exhibits go on to explain the rise of the civil rights movements in the southern states of Alabama, Mississippi etc, and in particular the Southern Christian Leadership Council, SCLC, of which Dr. Martin Luther King was a prominent leader. His visit to Memphis in April 1968, is traced alongside the journey of his assassin James Earl Ray, and the fateful day of 4th April.

The museum is in and around the building from which Ray shot Dr. King, and you can visit the bathroom where the shooting took place, and then cross Mulberry Road to the Lorraine Motel, room 306, where Martin Luther King was staying.

We then follow the capture of Ray a month later by the Metropolitan Police in London. He is tried in the US, and eventually changes his plea to guilty to avoid the death penalty, receiving a 99 years life sentence. He dies in prison in 1998 having served 30 years. What is notable is that there is never any explanation of his motive, only the comparison of different conspiracy theories, that are never proven.

I found the museum very thought provoking, it's very easy to understand the unalienable rights of all men and women to be treated equally, but of course it all moves onto human rights, gay rights, etc. Lorna & I have a deep conversation about the pros and cons of gay marriage, and wearing of the full burqa..........at the end deciding it's a pretty complex issue, and very difficult to resolve without predujice. One thought, given the christian church background of so many of the black people striving for equal rights would be their stance on the gay question. As advocates of equal rights regarding race, would they have been, are they as keen advocates for equal rights regarding gender and sexuality?

After this the day consists of travelling, of which the most stressful is returning the rental car. First the location has moved, and then we are overcharged by $100 or so, but manage to negotiate back $70 of that as we have returned the car after the 10.00am deadline. Flights via Washington to New York are very smooth, and a cab has us in downtown Manhattan within $30, or 20 minutes. Judy's apartment in on the 29th floor, and the night-time view over Central Park is breathtaking.


Spend today: lunch @ Frank Grisanti's (card)


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